New York's Blossom, Wilted

An article I wrote for Philly Broadcaster.

Horizons > Blossom?

BY MARISSA OSWALD New York’s Upper West Side hosts brownstones, above-average incomes, and the artiest folks in the whole city.  And perhaps the culinary prowess of Blossom vegan restaurant on 9th Ave. illuminates this part of the city for its overpriced but artfully executed face-free food.

This vegan gem is high up on the list of animal-product free gourmets popping up across the eastern seaboard.  California has long been known for holding a vast number of fine-dining venues for vegans and vegetarians; but New York City’s Blossom and Candle 79 are sharp competitors in the world of vegan gourmet.  Our own Philadelphia – city of cheese steaks and Italian cuts – possesses renowned vegan establishment; Horizons, for one,  which is elevated as a top dog among the New Yorkers.

But Blossom falls far from the Big Apple tree, for as you walk in, it’s impossible to tell you’re in New York City.  Nestled away in a dimly lit, romantic townhouse, Blossom’s black-curtained lower dining area makes you feel as if you’ve accidentally busted into some secret society of devil worshipers.  But by the time the menu arrives, you’ll forget about any preconceptions as you peruse through the extensive list of American wines and multi-cultural appetizers.

Everything on the menu is animal product free, meaning butter, eggs, cheese, honey, and milk are absent, as well as meat.  But dishes such as Cape Cod Cakes, raw Sweet potato Rolls, and Seitan Empanadas seem satisfying enough to entice any meat-eater’s palate.  The meatless menu scans the globe, and the helpful but not overbearing waiting staff is well-versed in guiding picky customers to their perfect dish, even if they have never heard of seitan or tempeh before.

When my appetizer arrived, the Parsnip Cappelleti appeared as two little deflated, dry pockets.  I realized it looked more like defrosted pierogies than “fresh, hand-rolled ravioli” and no taste of savory whipped parsnip or truffle oil could be detected.  Though unsatisfied with my appetizer, the Porcini Flutes compensated for my loss.  The porcini mushrooms, almonds and ground tempeh were wrapped in truly “fresh, hand-rolled” phyllo dough, set afloat in a shallow pool of  a cashew pesto, which tasted like buttery, herb-filled heaven.  The creaminess of the pesto drenching the crisp phyllo dough highlighted the savory taste of the ample filling.  While the porcini flutes will rock your taste buds, opt for the richer but well-reviewed Ravioli with Cashew Cream – a savory mixture of smoky tempeh, spinach, pine nuts, and white mushrooms in a genuine pasta coating.

And the main course proved to match up to the previous hors d-oeuvres.  While my tofu dish proved excellent, light, but satisfying, the other dish failed to wow a vegan and probably would be spit out by someone not used to faux meats.
The subtle flavors of the Pistachio and Pepper Dusted Tofu were enhanced with the coating of tangy, creamy lemon truffle emulsion.  The tofu was cut into two triangles set atop a cold crepe that was stuffed with root vegetables, which ended up tasting like soft carrots and maybe a few pieces of sweet potato.  While the crepe wasn’t all that spectacular, the pistachio-encrusted tofu drenched in the citrus cream was to die for.

On the other hand, the intriguing Feijoadinha with Smokey Tempeh was not at all a “lighter version” of Brazil’s national dish; that of hearty beef, black bean, squash, and sweet potato stew in a cilantro-lime broth.  Tempeh stood in the beef’s stead, which seemed cold and uncooked amid the sweet yet scant barbecue-like broth.  The vegetables were mediocre, but what cretin can’t cook up some sweet potatoes and pour a can of black beans into a dish at home?

With such a multi-cultural list of delicacies, Blossom seems to execute about half of them correctly.  Instead of indulging in dessert on the spot, I decidedly trekked across 9th Ave. to Cocoa V, their sister restaurant, which is a vegan and fair-trade chocolatier and wine bar.

There, I found more success with a not-too-sweet soy mocha latte and three truffles: vanilla berry, puffed rice marshmallow cluster, and peanut butter.  They were all creamy, rich, and dark, although the peanut butter truffle tasted so smooth that it could have been mistaken for a rich milk chocolate.

Whether Blossom flourishes or wilts, it remains one of the winning titles in the vegan dining world.  Preferably, I would choose Philadelphia’s Horizons over Blossom, proving you don’t have to travel to the Big City to dine glamorously.  However, I would suggest making a trip to Cocoa V, which is the only vegan chocolatier heard of on this side of the states, truly making it a match made in herbivore heaven.